July 18 - Mexico City

Today we would further explore the Zocalo and Alameda areas, but we decided to first go a bit off the beaten path to visit a large market district called La Merced south of a Zocalo to get a taste of real Mexico. To do this, we took the metro. It was surprisingly clean and fast. Upon getting off, our noses were immediately assaulted by the smell of fish - we were already in the market. As we slowly made our way through the narrow walkways of the indoor market, vendors constantly tried to entice us to buy everything from fruits to meats to clothing. When we finally emerged into the outdoors, we were greeted by 3 bustling streets lined with market stalls as far as the eye could see. It was almost an overwhelming sensations. As we inched through the crowded street ahead, occasionally allowing a car, truck, or person with a dolley VERY overstuffed pass, we refrained from taking pictures for fear of standing out as tourists in a place where no tourist or police could be seen. Thanks to my trusty mini-compass, we found our way out of the market. I knew we had to continue northwest to hit the Zocalo or a major street leading to it. Though our path ended up being rather "interesting," including most notably a street lined with ladies of the night (it was 11 am at the time...), we at last happened upon some tourists and quickly got to the Zocalo.

Still alive, our next goal - to see the Diego Rivera murals in the Palaio Nacional - fell through due to the building and surrounding streets being closed off by dozens of military police armed with assault rifles, batons, and shields in preparation for the movement of 'el presidente.' We found a small modern art museum to bide our time. Next, our journey took us through the Templo Mayor, the recently excavated ruins of a temple complex of the ancient Aztec city, Tenochtitlan, over which the modern Mexico City was built by the Spanish. After this, we ate at a nearby taco stall. By this time the palace was open, so we headed thataway. The mural was intense.

Then our focus moved towards Alameda park, an area near Bellas Artes and several museums, of which we partook in one - the Rivera museum. Following some horizontal time on the grass, we looked around the museum. Being rather tired at this point, we heeded the call of the adjacent cinemex theater and saw Batman - in Spanish! The nino-size popcorn and strawberry Icee were also refreshing. On the way back to the hostel, our stomachs begged us for 'comida,' so we dined at a restaurant in Zona Rosa on Genova street. Live music began as we finished our meal, but the increase in smokers precipitated our swift departure.