Guelaguetza day! We didn't have tickets ($40 US each), so we resolved to arrive 2.5 hours early to nab seats in the free sections way up in back for the afternoon show. We were too exhausted to wake up for the morning show (the shows start at 10am and 5pm). After breakfast, we hung out at the pool for a while and read. Then we successfully found the bus stop (after a good 20 minute walk down the hill). The bus set us back a measly 9 pesos. Getting off near the Zocalo, we had a tasty cheap lunch. Worried about being late, we headed straight for the Guelaguetza amphitheater. We soon encountered swarms of people squeezing through the narrow vendor-lined path to our destination. At times, walking was impossible; the press of the crowd moved us along. I'm quite certain some people were molested. Eventually we were separated into male/female lines, however. After an eternity of playing human bumper cars in the hot afternoon sun, we settled into some of the last remaining free seats.
An hour and a half later, the show began. The dances were similar to those we had seen in public places like the Zocalo, but the spectacular view of the city nestled into the valley was almost worth the trouble. Lauren ended up missing half the show waiting in the colossal bathroom line; as usual there was no line for the men's room though. We decided to depart before the end to avoid a repeat of the sardine can experience and the looming storm clouds. On the way out we found cheap meatless mole tamales and chilled coconuts.
We bought our bus ticket for San Cristobal at the Ticket Bus office in town and had dessert at a small place. I definitely will miss Oaxacan chocolate. Back at the taxi stand on Independencia near the Zocalo, we intelligently asked the cabbies before getting in if they knew our hostel. The first one we asked was unsure of himself, but number two was confident, and rightly so.
Frank